Three years prior to this cruise aboard Ventura to Spain and Portugal we’d visited the Spanish city of Vigo when we’d cruised to the Canary Islands (also aboard Ventura) and it was lovely to see that the view from our balcony was almost identical in terms of location and weather conditions for this return trip. In actuality, this would be our first time properly taking a look around Vigo as on that previous occasion we’d taken a tour to see some nearby highlights instead, something we often do on the first visit to a place so we can get a feel for port distance, general state of things, etc.
Blue sky, the Cíes Islands in the distance, and gulls swooping around. Yes, this was all very familiar.
We had a flexible plan for the day with some walkable goals but a lovely, relaxed sense that we’d take it as it came. Our first target, though, was a very specific building that I’d noticed when looking at the map and so we stepped ashore, passed through the very nice port area, and headed in the general direction we’d need.
One of the first things you’ll spot as you walk through the port area of Vigo is an ensemble of sculptures put up in 2011 called the Tribute to Emigration. If you’re talking to right-wingers on a cruise (and you will find them) then just tell them it’s people going on holiday or they’ll get a bit foamy-mouthed. These are by the sculptor Ramón Conde and they wouldn’t be the only public works of art of his we’d see on this day in Vigo.
Our walking route took us past the Collegiate Church of Santa Maria (or, at least, that’s one of its many names) and as it was open our walking route then took us inside. The building dates from 1811 and is simple in appearance without being too overstated. Neoclassical architecture, fairly small, and not too gaudy. Very nice, in other words.
We continued on our way and the next thing to catch our attention was the Neptune Fountain. Its current location wasn’t the original site it was built on but it had to be moved when Vigo underwent expansion in the nineteenth century. The first references to it, though, date back to the early seventeenth century and it with its angel atop are one of the city’s oldest public sculptures.
From something old to something very modern with El Sireno, or the Merman. Francisco Leiro was the sculptor of this 1991 rather surreal blend of man and fish in aluminium.
We were enjoying the various bits of architecture we could see around Vigo and we still hadn’t reached the one building we were aiming for when were sidetracked again after spotting MARCO, the museum of contemporary art. Naturally, we had to pop in. I do know that modern art isn’t to everyone’s tastes and I’d never claim to like all modern art but sometimes you’ll just see something and it will evoke a reaction or positive emotion, and that can be all you need. We’re fond of the surreal or abstract. We saw some pieces that we’d be happy to have in the house and we liked the building too. We couldn’t possibly afford either.
Just outside the museum there was another interesting sculpture. This was a tribute to a well-known newspaper seller in the city known as Manolo Castro. The sculpture apparently used to have a newspaper balanced on the top finger to spin, something he was famous for doing, although it was missing during our visit.
We finally reached the building we’d been looking for. This was the Aurora Polar Building and architecturally it’s from the broad movement that is rationalism, but even though it was built in 1959 it’s clear to see that it’s got all the hallmarks of the International Style or Art Deco here that pre-dates this by a few decades. We do like Art Deco, and Streamline Moderne with its hints of speed and travel leap out at me here too. Basically, this could be the corner aft of a cruise ship with balconies reflecting the blue sea. And we’re fond of cruise ships. As you can probably tell on this site.
Just around the back of the gorgeous modernist building in Vigo we found Plaza Portugal Park, a small green space with a fountain and some street art around the area. It made for a good place to sit and rest in the shade for a few minutes before setting off again.
The street art we’d seen had been okay but the next thing to catch our eye was a huge piece on the side of a building that was absolutely superb. This was Vigo, City of Colour by Louis Lambert.
It was time to check in with my wife to see how she felt about a little bit of uphill walking now. She has a history of bad ankles, knees, and hips, and another point of interest in the city was higher than we were. Getting the okay from her, we started to make our way to a historic point overlooking the city. This required us to double back on ourselves a bit before heading up the wide Gran Via Avenue. The road includes a moving walkway to help people up the hill… which wasn’t working. Still, as we walked, slowly, we did pass a monument to the workers – fishermen specifically – that also incorporated a water feature, and this artwork was also by Ramón Conde. See, I said we’d see more of his work.
In the next post in this series we’ll eventually reach the Fortress of El Castro for some lovely views out over Vigo before making the far easier trip down into the city once more.