Now, I’m well aware that some people who might stumble on this post while looking for details or reviews about Ambassador Ambience will take one look at the length of this “brief” post and cry, and while I’m not averse to making visitors to this site cry I am feeling generous right now and will tell you all you need to know in one sentence so you can close the browser tab early: if you are exactly the same sort of people as us then you will love your Ambassador Ambience cruise and won’t hesitate to book another one.

I’ll start with a little review of an Ambassador cruise in general and Ambassador Ambience specifically, particularly with how it all compares to other companies we’ve cruised with. After that it will be a brief look at our itinerary and highlights of it. Sorry, “brief.”

Ambassador Cruise Line At Tilbury, London

Getting to Tilbury was nice and easy from the M25, and with it being a far quieter port than, for example, Southampton, there was no problem with traffic. We didn’t want to risk driving up on the day because we’d be chancing our luck with delays at Dartford and we’ve been stung by that before. What we actually did was drive up the night before and head the (not that much) longer route clockwise around the M25 from the A3 in order to stay at a Premier Inn near Waltham Abbey. Cheap, close to a couple of pubs, midday check-out, and only 45 minutes from Tilbury the following day while avoiding Dartford which was perfect for our 13:00 boarding time.

Embarkation

The process if you’ve got car parking at Tilbury is that you drive in, wait in a small queue behind other cars, then take your cases out of your car to hand to porters, drive to where you’re directed to park, get out, walk the short distance to the terminal, queue to pass through security, wait to be directed to the check-in desk, do that, have your photos taken, walk around to pick up your boarding cards, and proceed to the ship. From parking to boarding the ship for us took about ten minutes. Excellent. The bit at the start in the queue behind other people unloading their bags… about another ten minutes. And there were only three cars. It took us under forty seconds to step out, open the boot, take the cases out, close the boot, drive off. How it takes people upwards of four minutes to do this is beyond me. Anyway…

The terminal building is really nice and we actually would have liked to look at more of it but the check-in and boarding process was so fast we never got a chance. I will have to look into its history when I get around to the full write-up.

Disembarkation

There’s a very important thing to know about disembarkation at Tilbury if you’re cruising with Ambassador and we were so happy to see people try to ignore the guidance about this because they’re super-special and the rules don’t apply to them, and get completely caught out as a result.

You’ll get an estimated departure time and a lounge in which you can wait for someone to come in and tell you when you can disembark. The announcement is not made over the speakers and the reason for that is to make sure that each group waits in the lounge and doesn’t head off to do their own thing elsewhere and cause congestion. The departure times are organised by decks and locations fore or aft, so for us, for example, on Deck 10 Forward (Yay! Star Trek!) we were to wait in the Observatory and could expect to get off at 09:20. It was a little later than that, but not by much. The reason that they do this, though, is that the luggage hall at Tilbury is small so they can only offload a small number of cases at a time and they do this in the sequence of being called. So if, like a lot of people, you think “Eh, I’ll get off early! Screw the system!” then instead of sitting in a lounge on the ship you get to sit on a plastic chair (if you’re lucky) in a concrete building on stone floor with shutters open to the elements because your cases won’t be there yet. We laughed to see so many who’d done just this.

Ambassador Ambience Cruise Ship

Ambassador Ambience is a one-of-a-kind cruise ship. There is (now) no other ship of the same design in the world, and much of that design comes about because of the history of the ship’s construction and the use of renowned architect, Renzo Piano (The Shard in London, the Pompidou Centre in Paris, and many others). She has a dolphin-like look to her front and on the ship itself the lounges are tall, giving them a sense of height and grandeur that you just don’t get on modern ships.

We’ve talked to people who were worried about the colour scheme that Ambassador Cruise Line uses: the purple and green. While they are complementary colours I can definitely see that the colours aren’t for everyone but that’s irrelevant because you don’t see them used together on the ship at all.

A quick explanation of the main public areas.

Raffles Bar is Art Deco, blacks and silvers, and utterly gorgeous. It’s a piano bar that would be absolutely perfect if you could transplant the Crooners drinks menu from Princess into it.

The Botanical Lounge is like a classic English orangery, reminiscent of an immense greenhouse with potted ferns and exotic plant species from around the world. Colours here are pale beige, cream, and green. Relaxing, bright, used for piano and violin performances (from two entertainingly grumpy performers) on our cruise.

The Purple Turtle Pub doesn’t look like a pub, nor is it particularly purple, and not once did we see a turtle in it. A recessed pit area with seats is surrounded on two sides by more seating and has a small performance area at one end for the resident band or host of quizzes or game shows, and a small bar at the other.

Centre Court is where you first board the ship. It’s an oval space over three decks with seating, a bar, a café, the shops, reception, and the small casino off it. Light green colouring to match with the tennis theme chosen here, it’s similar to an atrium on other ships but without being that noisy central part that you have to go through to get to other places. In fact, we hardly visited this area at all because it was arguably too quiet for us.

The Observatory is the nightclub. It’s in that bulbous dolphin head at the front, similar to a Crows Nest on a P&O ship but just staggeringly beautiful at night. Here there are purples and blacks and a design that puts you in mind of a spaceship.

Ambassador have done an incredible job with the interior designs on Ambience but there is an important thing to remember: she is an old ship, and old ships have issues.

Now, if you’re the sort of person, like us, who is also old and has issues then it’s very easy to overlook some of the problems we encountered on Ambience. In fact, I’d say it makes her even more loveable as a cruise ship. It means Ambience has personality. She has a feel to her. She’s not the latest mega-ship clone with all the latest equipment and all the best facilities. Quite frankly, if you were to cruise on her and expect as much then you have more serious issues than Ambience.

This is a review (a “brief” one, if you remember) and not a sales pitch or attempt to curry favour with cruise lines, and perhaps for some people a helpful guide as to what you might expect should you choose to cruise on Ambience too (with the understanding that every cruise, every cabin, every expectation, every experience is subject to random chance) so let’s not hide the problems away and pretend everything was fantastic.

Issues Aboard Ambassador Ambience

It was incredibly warm at times on Ambience. The air conditioning on the ship appeared to be geared towards the expectation that because we were heading into the Arctic Circle it made sense to turn the heating up ahead of time. That would’ve been tolerable if we could have escaped to our cabin and cooled down in there but if the dial on the wall had any impact on the base temperature then we never worked out what it was. Our cabin, in fact, was on occasion the hottest place making sleeping particularly challenging for us until we realised – and here’s where booking a balcony cabin helped – that we could wedge the balcony door open with a chair at night. We slept with our balcony open every night north of the Arctic Circle in March. That tells you how warm it was. I’m pretty sure we weren’t the only people doing this given the whistling noises from the doors to cabins along our deck.

Showers on cruise ships have sometimes been subject to fluctuating temperatures in the past for us but not to the extent we had in our cabin. It ended up turning into a form of roulette. With no change to the setting on the shower what exciting skin-boiling or body-freezing temperature could we expect? And for how long?

Announcements into the room drove us mad. Like all cruises we’ve been on, announcements can be sent to public areas or they can be sent everywhere, including the cabins. Telling us a port is cancelled or that the all aboard time has to be moved forward because of the weather are great examples of when announcements should be sent to the cabins too because that’s a change to expectations as printed in the daily programme of events. Telling us that we’ve arrived in a port at the scheduled time and that the gangway is where it’s expected to be and that the shuttle buses are running as explained and that literally nothing is different from what everyone was anticipating both prior to the cruise and based on the night before’s information delivered to the cabins simply has no place being broadcast into the rooms of people at 08:00 who were still in the nightclub at 03:00.

The lifts were very temperamental. They would sometimes declare the weight had been exceeded with only a few people in it. Some people told us one lift kept stopping a few floors below where they wanted to go then headed back down. One lift worked on day one then never again. We had the fun experience of having to press the alarm button to get out on one occasion because the doors wouldn’t open and the lift wouldn’t move. Each lift is entertainingly decorated in its own way so, for the record, it was the woodland lift, and every time we got in it after that event we did so with mild fear.

Ambassador’s Approach To Cruising

Those were the issues we encountered enough to notice them, and none of them were the sorts of things you’d complain about because they were more than offset by all the good things aboard Ambience.

Ambassador Ambience is a small ship, relatively-speaking, and the cruise line does some things in a more traditional manner than you might be used to if you’ve been cruising on larger, more modern ships, so here are some of the things to be aware of if you’re thinking of cruising with Ambassador for the first time.

The buffet area is a decent size and the quality of food was perfectly fine for breakfast but the variety of items was small and unchanging. That’s understandable given the fairly low number of passengers. Just note that whatever range of food you see on day one will be the same for the remainder of the cruise. We can’t say much about lunch or dinner as we only had a quick meal of random things there on one day when we were heading out for a trip in the evening, and we tried the afternoon tea on a couple of days and that was basic but fine enough. Worth noting is that everything is served by staff and you don’t help yourself, and that there is no formal queue system so plan your approach to stations accordingly to avoid hot food going cold while you wait for someone to complete their order for toast so you can get some bread rolls.

Dinner in the main dining room is at fixed times on tables ranging for four to maybe eight or more that you can request ahead of time but which you can always change aboard. There were some 2-seaters but we found that our table for four (second sitting, so that’s 20:15) worked well enough to ensure we weren’t there ages. We never had problems with missing game shows or performances because the times worked fine. Four courses is the norm with an appetiser then soup or salad then main then dessert, and like the buffet the quality was perfectly fine even if the types of food didn’t vary wildly. None of the meals really matched the quality we’ve had on lines like Princess, and it would’ve been nice to see some more contrast in some of the meal designs. Many of the main courses I chose were fish, potatoes, and vegetables, with the fish and style of potatoes changing every day but not enough; the fish was always fresh and well-cooked, falling apart under the fork, but the potatoes also tended to be mashed or crushed (that’s lumpy mash to you) and so it didn’t offer a good textural contrast. Great if you’ve got dodgy dentures, though, I imagine.

There is no late-night buffet on Ambassador ships so if you’re one of those people who absolutely must have something to eat after dinner then go see a doctor and get yourself tested. Weirdo. What Ambassador do, though, is bring around trays of nibbles between 23:00 and 23:30 to the public lounges. Think hors d’oeuvres and samosas, that sort of thing. The first time you see them you’ll think it’s a bit odd but by day three you’re keenly awaiting them to turn up and halfway through the cruise there will be a Pavlovian response to the trays’ arrivals. We loved the trays.

We tried speciality dining on Ambience on two nights.

Sea & Grass is a mostly set menu. There were some nice courses, but some were just about okay. We thought the overall experience was comparable to our Marella speciality dining from years before in that it was a step up from the main dining room, but maybe not a huge step. Our big problem was that it amounted to a one-and-done experience because nothing was quite good enough to come back for.

Saffron is the Asian restaurant on Ambience. Any regular readers – humour me – will know that we aren’t fans of Indian food so the only times we order food of this style is on cruise ships “just to see” and our experience to date hasn’t been brilliant. Service in Saffron was actually quite awful with us sitting for forty minutes with a glass of water and a glass of wine before anyone took our order, and that was due to officers being present who were getting all the attention from the waiting staff. Special, we didn’t feel. The food then came fairly fast, one course after another – not ideal – but, fair play, we both thought it was the best food of that style that we’ve had on any cruise.

We’ve moaned about the state of prizes on Princess ships in the trivia over the years but Ambassador went one better (or worse) by offering only one prize per team. This didn’t make it easy to join other people for the quiz because you’d need to work out who would keep the prize should you win, but whether you’d want to is another matter entirely. The low quality prizes were a running joke between the entertainments staff and passengers, though, and we’re very glad of our Ambassador-branded luggage tag, flimsy fridge magnet, and stress ball that we managed to acquire. The variety of quizzes was good with a traditional general knowledge one in the morning, a video-clip-based one in the afternoon, and a mixed general knowledge and themed quiz in the evening. We liked the additional mystery voice quiz they ran throughout the day too.

Would We Cruise On Ambassador Ambience Again?

Yes. The right itinerary, given the great value pricing that Ambassador offers makes this an easy one to say yes to anyway, but it’s mostly because of that hard-to-describe feeling we got after being aboard Ambience for just a little while, and I’ve mentioned it already. Ambience just feels right. She’s the right size. She’s got the right set of quirks of character that endear her to you. She’s designed for passengers, not for cramming passengers in. She’s so stylish. By day two we were simply happy being on Ambience despite any issues. In a lot of ways we thought she was similar to P&O’s Aurora or Princess’s Island Princess. Older, sure. Smaller. More spacious. But Ambience has the best looks of the three and she’s the one we’d pick first to cruise on again.

Northern Lights Cruise Itinerary And Experiences

Our cruise on Ambassador Ambience was a 17-day trip, making it equal to the longest total trip we’ve done to date and the longest one entirely on a cruise ship. We didn’t want to try a short cruise as our first with Ambassador because taster cruises sometimes skew things by appealing more to a younger demographic and not reflecting fully a typical cruise, and we’re sure that’s part of the reason why our experiences with both Celebrity and MSC haven’t lived up to expectations so far.

Hardangerfjord

This was not planned. This was not a cruise that really should have featured fjords very much, instead hugging the Norwegian coast up to the very top, but the very first port of call, Haugesund, was cancelled early in the morning of our arrival there due to the wind conditions and safety. We’ve been to Haugesund before and had a nice enough time but it’s not the prettiest of places and there wasn’t anything we’d planned to do anyway so the scenic cruising along a fjord we’d not heard of instead and which I don’t think we’ve ever seen on a cruise itinerary before suited us fine. And it was beautiful.

We cruised up as far as Furebergsfossen waterfall, did a few turns, then headed back out. Having a balcony cabin was perfect for this as we could duck back inside from the chill blowing in off the distant glaciers and mountain peaks but just a few metres down the corridor from us on deck 10 there was also a forward viewing area below the bridge and nightclub that’s open during the day so we and many other people frequently popped out there just to get a wider view of what’s ahead. Before it got too cold and we had to scarper inside again.

Bergen

On our second cruise ever, and our first to Norway, the first port of call had been Bergen and we were looking forward to seeing it with more seasoned cruising eyes. We had plans but we also had one of us – me, for a change – who’d injured himself just prior to this cruise, tearing a calf muscle. That hadn’t fully healed and we’d only just stepped ashore when I felt it tweak again. Many of our plans were discarded and we ended up walking around very slowly with plenty of stops to rest. Ambience’s captain had announced that instead of departing Bergen at 18:00 as planned we’d be staying overnight but most things were shutting by early evening anyway and we were in no state for finding a club or pub in the dark. However, we did get around to the aquarium and we did check out a craft ale bar for a few drinks that also sold loads of vinyl. We’d have stayed longer in that bar if it hadn’t been so cold inside.

Ålesund

The last of the Norwegian ports we’d visited before was Ålesund and we pushed my injury to its limits with more walking than we should have, this time heading up to a viewing point on the west side of the city – not the main one everyone else goes to, but we do like to be different – before heading down for a great visit to the museum set in the former pharmacy. A bit more exploring to the east to eat up time – another place we wanted to look at ended up being closed – before the brewery right next to where Ambience was docked opened, and that’s where we sat for a couple of hours. The pattern of exploring then drinking will repeat itself a bit here.

Trondheim

Trondheim is pretty flat and very walkable but we still took advantage of the shuttle bus – they were all free for us in every port on this Ambassador Ambience cruise – to eliminate some of that walking to start our day here. We visited the art museum, the cathedral, the regalia museum, and the museum of archaeology (the last three of those on a combined ticket), and enjoyed them all. The cathedral was particularly nice. There are many more things we’d like to see on a return trip to Trondheim. We finished with a walk back to the ship via a craft ale bar (surprise!) which had lovely beer but not the best service in the world.

Tromsø

Our first encounter with snow on this cruise took place at Tromsø. Opposite where the ship docked was a botanical garden that had been a thought about exploring before we’d arrived, but that was all under a dozen or more centimetres of snow. Walking on the compacted snow and icy patches was obviously a concern for Mr Dodgy Leg here too. The free shuttle bus was used again and we visited another aquarium – we like them – then went hunting for some art sculptures along the shoreline. We cancelled our plan to cross the bridge and head to the cathedral over the water and opted instead for a few hours in the northernmost brewery in the world, and that was a very popular, absolutely wonderful place to enjoy craft beers.

Alta

This was as far north as we’d get on this cruise and we had 36 hours here. On the first day we had overcast, snowy conditions. An afternoon excursion took us to the Sorrisniva ice and igloo hotel. We’d wanted to visit a proper ice hotel – not one of those bars in a freezer you see in cities – and this really did not disappoint at all. The construction was great, the ice carvings in the walls were lovely, the suites with their colourful themed decorations in the snow and ice were superb. Not only that, but outside, trudging through calf-deep snow in snowy conditions around the back of the hotel we found some reindeer. A great trip and not something we’d seen other people do with most people we know seemingly absolutely determined to all do the husky ride.

After the ice hotel we were dropped off in Alta but there’s not a lot there. We did visit the church for its architecture but that was about the limit of interest. At night we headed out for four hours of aurora-hunting, making our way to the edge of a fjord and sitting out on furs in deep snow hoping to catch something in the gaps in the cloud cover. We never did, but it was still a fun and interesting thing to do. The following morning we departed Alta and passed P&O’s Aurora coming in to take our place.

Lofoten

Our only tender port was at Lofoten and we’d decided that we’d probably head in for some scenic walking rather than anything arranged because there didn’t look to be a lot to do otherwise. As it was this plan was adjusted because our stop was shortened for weather. Strong winds were due and a few hours ashore were all we could do so we took the free bus from the port into Leknes and decided to walk back to the port by a prettier route. And it would have been if we’d been able to see much of it under the rain and low cloud. We still enjoyed getting soaked and would loved to have seen more of Lofoten. Leknes itself, though, looked pretty devoid of any interest to us.

You can see what the weather was like as we leaving Lofoten in the picture below, and that weather is why our final Norwegian port call at Bodø the following day was also cancelled in order to give Ambience a chance to get ahead of the wind and waves and not risk a fast and rocky crossing afterwards to the last port.

Aberdeen

After two days at sea, one rocky, one calm as you like, we arrived at the final port on this Ambience cruise, Aberdeen. We had an excursion here to Crathes Castle and Gardens which turned out to be eventful as we got stuck on a road thanks to an accident ahead – a truck on its side, just off the road, spilling fuel, that required the road to close – but with no way for our bus or some other trucks to turn around. The police eventually let us through much to our panicking guide’s relief as nobody was answering the tour emergency numbers she was calling. The castle was lovely, as were the gardens – always nice to visit something a little different – and the gardens probably look even more spectacular in summer when everything’s blooming. We’d intended to walk around Aberdeen (as it looked very interesting) and visit a bar (surprise!) after the trip but that was when we thought we’d be docked in the north docks, and that wasn’t the case. Given my leg and the need for a shuttle bus and the fact we’d been up until three in the morning chatting in the nightclub, we made our way aboard Ambience for the final time.

Northern Lights Cruise Review

The big question is, of course, did we see the Northern Lights? Yes, we did, on a few nights, and some of it had colour visible to the naked eye. That only happened while on the ship, though, and not on the land tour where we’d hoped to see it and where we had all the equipment set up for long exposures on tripods, so all the shots were handheld and on the phone and subject to ship movement.

Not ideal, but it wasn’t the main purpose for going on this cruise for us.

This cruise on Ambassador Ambience was to see what Ambassador Cruise Line were like as a company, to see what we thought of the old lady of the sea, Ambience, and to visit a host of new ports for us and to properly cross over into the Arctic Circle for the first time. In all those areas this cruise exceeded our expectations. Not only that, but we also saw orca for the first time, with one surfacing right in front of us from our balcony, maybe under fifty metres away. I’ve wanted to see orca for years and while I know it wasn’t arranged by Ambassador I’d still like to thank them for being around when it happened.

Ambience is not without a few issues but they’re the sorts of things that make her stand out. Ambience is beautiful. The crew were great. We met so many good people aboard and it’s worth mentioning here as well that one family who were travelling from Belgium had their dad with them on dialysis; they’d looked around for cruises to do this as it was something he wanted to do but only a few lines offer the service, with Ambassador being one.

And a final but important thing to point out is that we’ve never been on a cleaner ship. Hand gel dispensers never ran out, the paper in the waste bins was never overflowing, the public spaces were spotless, empty glasses were rarely left on tables for very long, banisters were constantly being washed down.

Ambassador is a cruise line we will definitely be cruising with again at some point.

This would be our first cruise with Ambassador although back in 2018 we’d spent a night sailing aboard the now-defunct Astoria with the now-also-defunct Cruise & Maritime Voyages, which can be considered a precursor cruise line to Ambassador or the ashes from which the Ambassador phoenix arose. Only less purple.

Cruising with a line for the first time brings with it some risk. Every line does things differently and targets different sorts of cruisers so it’s vitally important to do some research first to make sure it’s a good fit for your age, temperament, and expectations. Additionally, cruise durations have a big impact on what sort of cruising experience you’re going to get aboard. Short cruises attract a younger, more of a party crowd, and the vibe on the ship might be very different to something longer. If the cruise line doesn’t quite suit you then too long a cruise will feel like torture. If I was the sort of person who handed out advice to people looking for cruise answers, then I’d say that a week to ten days is a solid length of time you should aim for if this is your first time with a line, or with cruising at all.

We’re quite contrary people and we’re also pretty experienced now so for our very first cruise with Ambassador we decided to book a seventeen-day cruise above the Arctic Circle (our first proper time cruising that far north although technically we’d been on a ship that just straddled the line of latitude a few years earlier) in search of the Northern Lights at the top of Norway. We like Norway so this would be a chance to see more of the country and tick off some new ports. We like seeing the aurora (we’ve been lucky enough to see it a few times now). We’d dug into Ambassador enough to know that there was a very good chance we’d like cruising with them. It wasn’t that big a risk, and, thanks to Ambassador running a promotion at the time, the price per person per night worked out good enough to opt for a balcony cabin on the ship too. And we like balconies when we can justify the additional cost.

Among the many new things that this cruise would bring would be a new cruise port to depart from and arrive at. Tilbury lies on the north side of the Thames, just to the east of London. It’s certainly a place we could have driven to on the day of the cruise but for a more stress-free holiday we decided to travel up after work the evening before, staying at a hotel near Waltham Abbey. It was cheap, easy to find, cut a lot of the cruise day travelling out of the equation, and there were a couple of pubs close by so it worked well for us. We’d almost certainly do the same on a subsequent cruise from Tilbury, and at the time of writing this we do actually have plans for that very thing in late 2028.

Whether you’re heading to Tilbury for an Ambassador Cruise from the clockwise or anti-clockwise direction around the M25 you’re going to need to get off at the A13 and head east. As we’d stayed at Waltham Abbey we were coming from a clockwise direction so it was a longer drive than it needed to be, but it did mean we could avoid the Dartford Tunnel. I’m sure the tunnel is fine most of the time but we’ve been caught in it once before and our lives are better without that worry.

The signs to the docks were easy to follow and we were soon pulling into the car park where we were directed to a place to drop our cases off, then to the parking bays. From this point to stepping on board Ambience was about ten minutes and that includes walking with our hand luggage to the port building, checking in, having a photo taken, picking up our cards, and following the throng through the walkways jutting out from land to the jetty against which the ship was docked. It was so quick that I didn’t have any chance to take any pictures from within the cruise terminal building itself which is a shame as it’s truly lovely, but below you’ll see what the building looks like from the outside, as seen from our balcony a little later in the day.

The cruise terminal building was completed in the 1920s, just a little too early to embrace the Art Deco that would have totally suited its role, instead favouring some lovely neo-Georgian touches. Of historical significance is that the Empire Windrush docked there in 1948, bringing migrants from the West Indies to help in Britain’s post-war restoration efforts.

Boarding the ship brought us straight into the heart of Ambience. This was the spacious Centre Court, spread over three levels. We had arrived before the rooms were ready and we had a carry-on wheelie case with us so we decided not to have an explore of the ship – there was no rush, after all – but instead grab a seat in Centre Court as we could see some vacant. It would have been rude not have some drinks and we’re not rude people.

We were finishing up our second drink when the announcement was made that our cabins were now ready. As I’ve already mentioned, we’d booked a balcony room for this cruise, deck 10 forward (always nice as we’re Star Trek fans), starboard side, cabin 10135. The cabin was bright and clean with the bathroom coming across as understandably dated but perfectly fine. We weren’t on the cruise to spend copious amounts of time showering. Storage was incredible. You could pack for four people for a world cruise here. The television was small with none of the on demand offerings we’ve come to expect, but that wasn’t a big deal. We weren’t on the cruise to watch TV either. One thing that was a problem in this room – and this might have been a transient thing that’s since been fixed, or it might have been because we were heading to the far north in winter time with a lot of old people aboard – was the air conditioning’s base temperature of too bloody hot. If the thermostat did a thing then we never found out why or how. It was very warm in this room, to the extent that we ended up wedging a chair in the doorway to the balcony just to sleep at night. Yes, we slept with our balcony door open while cruising past snowy landscapes in the Arctic Circle.

We had time for a little explore now before muster and that began on the top deck where Ambience’s pools and Ambassador’s purple and green colour scheme took centre stage. We didn’t actually venture into the pools at all on this cruise and I’m not entirely sure why as they looked very inviting.

A friendly member of staff decided we looked parched and convinced us to grab another drink outside before we went forward to the Observatory, Ambience’s nightclub venue and crow’s nest area. We were blown away by how lovely the Observatory was during the daylight hours and we’d come to the decision very quickly at night that it was in fact the most beautiful nightclub at sea. The ship was designed with passengers in mind, not profits at the passengers’ expense, and you could really tell. The public spaces on Ambience aren’t just big and airy, they’re also gorgeously decorated. She may be an old ship with a somewhat unique look from the outside but she’s one of the classiest vessels at sea once you’re aboard.

Muster was held in the theatre for us and this was another venue that immediately surprised and impressed us. Leg room! So much leg room! We could stretch our legs out and not touch the seats in front.

If we have a balcony cabin then we will typically enjoy the sailaway from our balcony with a drink in hand. However, not only was Tilbury a new port from which to disembark for us, it also meant we’d be sailing along the snaking course of the Thames before hitting the open sea. This would all be new to us and so we wandered out both forward and aft to catch the evening departure views. One of the big benefits of our cabin being forward on deck ten was that we were on the same deck and only a dozen metres back from a forward viewing spot under the bridge. We’d end up popping out here a lot on this cruise because Norway’s landscape encourages that sort of behaviour. The sunset scenes from the ship’s aft were a particularly nice view for our first night aboard Ambience too.

Ambassador do fixed-time dining which isn’t our preferred choice but we understand why a lot of the older and smaller ships do things this way. We had the late sitting and were on a table for four, only our table companions didn’t join us for this first night. In fact, we probably only saw them about half the time as either they were trying some speciality dining or we were or we’d eaten late and hit the buffet or they’d decided on the buffet or they’d got talking to other people and missed dinner entirely. That saved us having to come up with new conversations every day, at least. Service was superb. Food across this cruise was good, without being spectacular, with the exception of one speciality evening which very positively impressed us. You’ll have to wait for that write-up.

After dinner we found ourselves in Raffles, the up-class piano lounge on Ambience. Again, just stunning decor with a height that just made it feel that little bit more special again. The pianist was excellent on this cruise – actually, all the performers were excellent – and this would be our early evening venue almost every evening. We finished this first night by taking an elevator up to the Observatory and this started our fun game of seeing what elevator decoration we’d get. Polar Bear on this occasion, as you can see. Quirky, but simple fun.

The Observatory at night was utterly stunning. Various sorts of entertainment would take place here across this cruise but it would always end with a late-night disco, and we’d almost always be some of the last people in it each night. On this first evening aboard Ambience we got talking to a guy who’d known Divine. Disco royalty.

Ambassador don’t run a late-night buffet but they do bring around trays of nibbles at about eleven o’clock each night. Odd, we thought, on our first night on the ship, but by day three we were already experiencing a Pavlovian response of extra salivation as snacking time approached and we wondered what choice there’d be to tempt us now.

That’s the end of our first day aboard an Ambassador Cruise Lines ship. In the next post in this Ambassador Ambience cruise travelogue series there’s a sea day and formal night dinner to look forward to.

What was the purpose of that preamble? Was it just to pad the content out on what’s going to be a post devoid of very much information at all? That definitely factored into it, yes, because I am a verbose bugger even when I’ve got nothing to say, but it’s also to point out that just because we did absolutely stuff-all on this first day at sea aboard Ambassador Ambience, that’s just what we like to do. Everyone’s different. For the sort of activities you could get up if you were cruising on this ship, here’s the programme of events for the day.

On another day we might have attended the guest lecture or the other talks aboard, or we might have set ourselves up somewhere so we could at least watch one of the games taking place, knowing that we’d have needed to be absolutely hammered to even consider joining in (we’re shy, you see). However, on this particular day we grabbed our books, found quiet spots, and contented ourselves with some reading and trivia, just as I explained at the start of this write-up. Naturally, there was some sea-gazing too because a guaranteed sight on any sea day is the actual sea, and we really like the sea. This was the North Sea and we were on our way to Norway having left Tilbury on Ambience the evening before.

One of those quiet spots for reading was the Botanical Lounge, a place I’d somehow not managed to photograph on embarkation day. This was a bright and airy space, bringing the feel of a stately home’s orangery onto the ship. During the cruise it would be where some trivia games were held, the book club met up, and some acting vignettes took place, and in the evening it often hosted the piano and violin duo who were certainly a pair of characters. We weren’t entirely sure that they weren’t international assassins stationed at sea.

There are people who cruise who really like formal night. It’s a chance to dress up and embrace the rigid class structure aboard ocean-going liners of high society of the early-to-mid twentieth century. We’re not huge fans, but we don’t mind making an effort occasionally just to be part of the crowd. I don’t have the sort of body that looks good in a tuxedo and bow tie but I suffer through it because when all is said and done, it’s just for a few hours. We’re not the sort of people who think that just because they’re paying for a cruise (just like everyone else) they should get to do whatever they like. That’s a very selfish and immature attitude and it immediately means you’ve got no grounds to ever complain about anything anyone else ever does in any situation. Trying to enjoy a special occasion in a restaurant with your spouse but there’s a naked man on the next table watching TV on his phone and shouting at the top of his voice while coating his body in spaghetti? Well, he is paying for the meal so…

I went off on a tangent there. You could probably tell.

Formal nights on cruise ships tend to coincide with sea days and so we duly donned our poshest of clobber as the afternoon sailing northwards drifted into evening. We hit the Purple Turtle pub ahead of dinner in order to take part in the “Nice & Easy Trivia.” The name is a deliberate lie as the trivia on Ambience was anything but easy, but that made it that much better. We like a challenge. And I also like to have a Vodka Martini when I’m dressed up for the occasion. If I’m going to look like James Bond – well, if you squint, and you’re far away, and you haven’t actually seen James Bond to compare – then why not act a little like it? Nobody makes a Vodka Martini as well as I do (if I say so myself) but the ships do a passable job most of the time and this was perfectly adequate on Ambience.

Onto the dinner then. If you’ve read the first part of this cruise series then you’ll know that our dinner companions for our fixed dining hadn’t made an appearance on the initial evening aboard, but they were present this night and we got on perfectly well with them.

The food was of good quality, with nothing standing out but also nothing disappointing.

After one drink in the Botanical Lounge we ended up spending most of the evening in Raffles with the very talented Alex Dennis on piano.

The first full day aboard Ambassador Ambience then concluded for us up in the absolutely gorgeous Observatory (as it would do most nights). We arrived at the end of a Silent Disco taking place. We’re not fans of these things – they’re rarely silent, and they’re horribly awkward things if you’re not sporting a pair of headphones yourself – but a lot of people do enjoy them and that’s all that really matters. Entertainment for us came in the form of someone dancing on the floor with whom we’d been chatting the previous evening. He spotted us walking into the quiet venue of shuffling bodies, squeaking shoes, and a small chorus of tone-deaf singing of multiple songs at the same time by different people, only to loudly shout “You’re late!” across the dance floor to us. Bar staff and others in the club who weren’t wearing headphones all turned to stare at us and wonder who we were and what we were late for.

The next day would see us stop at the port of Haugesund. Unless the wind had other ideas and the captain decided to take us on an unplanned scenic cruise along Hardangerfjord instead. Yeah, that.

Hardangerfjord is Norway’s second longest fjord and it’s actually the fifth longest fjord in the world. We wouldn’t be cruising its entire length, though. We’d be making our way slowly as far as the waterfall Furebergsfossen, a distance of about eighty kilometres from where the fjord met the North Sea.

The earliest parts of the scenic cruising through Hardangerfjord didn’t offer a lot to see as the land near the coast was low-lying, although the very distant snowy peaks promised there would be more impressive views of mountainous peaks to come.

We’d booked a balcony cabin for this cruise even though for older, smaller ships such as Ambience this can push the price of a cruise up quite significantly. Our balcony was on deck 10, forward, starboard side, and while this provided a great, sheltered spot from which to see at least one half of the scenery passing by, it also had another benefit in that it was about a dozen metres back from a forward viewing platform. I would be able to spend the time during the scenic cruising either sitting in our room to warm up, popping out onto the balcony, or braving the elements at the front with a few tens of other passengers. It was bitterly cold as the ship was moving and, even though it was sunny and the ambient temperature wasn’t awful, there was a wind that seemed to be coming down the fjord from the snow-topped mountains, carrying a lot of ice in its grasp.

Hardangerfjord has good conditions for fish farming and we’d seen several examples of farms already when something more unusual caught our eyes. Impossible not to, really. From a distance it looked like an alien spacecraft had crash-landed onto the water, and the similarity to the ship in the film Flight of the Navigator was hard to miss. This was actually Salmon Eye, a floating exhibition centre educating visitors about the aquaculture industry which also offered a rather unique dining experience in its restaurant. It sounds like it would be a fabulous place to visit.

The village of Ænes looked absolutely stunning on the lower land framed by mountains.

The wind that had felt like it was blowing over the snowy peaks down to our ship could actually be seen doing exactly that at points along Hardangerfjord.

We eventually reached the furthest point along Handangerfjord that we were going to go. This was Furebergsfossen, a glacier-fed waterfall. It’s sometimes easy to lose sense of scale when you’re cruising through Norway’s fjords and this was an example where it happened to us as we’d initially thought “Okay, it’s a nice waterfall, but it’s not that spectacular.” And then we spotted the cars passing by on the road and we had to reevaluate the size of the natural wonder.

Ambience stayed at Furebergsfossen for a little while, giving everyone a good chance to see it wherever they were on the ship and also allowing the ship’s videographers to launch a drone to record some footage. We took the opportunity to grab ourselves a light lunch on the top deck and it was good to see how many people were out to enjoy the views.

And then it was time to turn around and head back down Hardangerfjord and out to the open sea.

The low, early evening sun absolutely transformed the colours of the Norwegian landscape.

Rounding off this day of scenic cruising along Hardangerfjord here’s a look at what we had for dinner that evening in the main dining room aboard Ambience.

We had a few drinks in Raffles and then spent some time in the Observatory at the end of the night. We’d do that a lot on this cruise. They’re each some of the most beautifully-decorated spaces we’ve ever experienced on any cruise ship.

In the next post in this cruise travelogue series we’ll arrive at Bergen which was the first Norwegian city we ever visited, taking place on our second ever cruise over twelve years earlier, and this would be the first time seeing the city again since that occasion.

Bergen would also be the first Norwegian port of call for our 2025 Ambassador Ambience cruise in search of the Northern Lights, but only because we’d not been able to dock at Haugesund as planned for the day before and had been treated instead to a lovely bit of scenic cruising along Hardangerfjord instead.

We still hadn’t seen any excursions that really grabbed us by the neck and said “Do us!” so we’d decided we were going to tackle the city on foot once more, only this time with more of an idea about what to see and with modern technology in the palm of our hands allowing us to track where we were. It’s weird to think about those early cruises when something as simple as opening a map on the phone wasn’t actually possible and when you relied far more heavily on printed material and a general sense of direction.

We decided to stay aboard Ambience for a late, quieter breakfast and the early morning trivia, and with the ship being emptier and there being less competition this allowed us win a coveted Ambassador Cruise Line stress ball. If you’re feeling envious about this then you may borrow the ball to squeeze it a few times and return to something approaching your normal temperament.

While I don’t know for sure where Crown Princess had docked back in 2013, I suspect it was to the south west of the city centre. Ambience, however, was docked on the northern side of Vågen, the bay that enters the central part of Bergen and around which the oldest buildings can be found. Our loose not-much-of-a-plan for the day was to walk around, pay a bit more attention to the sights and architecture, and to make our way to the city’s aquarium which was on the southern side of the bay. The first sight we came to was that of Bergenhus Fortress and the Rosenkrantz Tower nearer the road. The fortress, built to protect the harbour entrance, dates to the middle of the thirteenth century when Bergen served as the capital of Norway before Oslo supplanted it.

A statue of Sigurd Asserson was initially a bit of a puzzle as this particular civil servant’s history didn’t seem to connect him to Bergen at all, but he did serve as director of the Norwegian Directorate of Fisheries from 1918 to 1937 and that entity’s headquarters are in the city. Understandable, really, given the easy access to the North Sea and the large number of fishing vessels in Bergen’s harbour.

As we were passing the area we popped into Bryggen, the old Hanseatic quarter of the city and popular tourist spot. We’d explored here on our previous visit to Bergen and my wife had bought a ring there that she’s wearing now even as I type this. It’s an attractive part of the city with distinctive, tall, wooden-boarded architecture, but there wasn’t a whole lot of places of interest to us within its narrow alleys on this particular trip.

The building with the distinctive stepped and crenellated gable below looks like it is or was a church but the religion in this case was meat, as the structure, Kjøttbasaren, built around 1874, was originally a bazaar dedicated to controlling food fraud and hygiene. These days those inside or out will still be worshipping food and drink as the building hosts a restaurant, bar, and global coffee brand.

As we reached the innermost point of Vågen we passed another building familiar to us from our first visit to Bergen. The prominent, white-boarded building promoting its restaurant and microbrewery was something I photographed over a decade before so I had to do so again from about the same position, this time taking advantage of the sunshine and bright blue sky to really make the structure pop. We do like microbreweries but from reading online it looked like this was a place you could only visit as part of a group tour and tasting experience rather than just arrive and sample some beers. Possibly true, possibly not. I guess if you were to eat there then you could order drinks too, but none of the online information was very clear and as it was still quite early in the morning we didn’t pop in to verify one way or the other. It was in the back of our minds that we might visit it on the way back to the ship later in the day although we wouldn’t end up doing so.

We continued our walk on the southern side of the harbour, looking across the cool and inviting water to the parts of the city we’d already passed by.

Probably my favourite piece of architecture on this side of the water was Skur 14 Øvningslokaler For Musikk, a repurposed space for musicians to rent out rehearsal spaces and put on small concerts. I couldn’t find anything about the building history but it has a blend of late 1930s Art Deco Streamline Moderne with the sci-fi feel of Googie architecture that emerged from it in America in the 1940s.

Despite being surrounded by hills, Bergen is generally pretty flat, but as we neared our destination on the Nordnes peninsula we did need to head up a relatively short slope and it was here that my wife aggravated an old injury. We would end up curtailing several other vague plans for the day as a result, not wanting to make an irritation into something worse with the promise of snowy destinations later in the cruise, but for now we pressed on towards the aquarium.

For reasons I can’t remember we couldn’t get in to see the fish tanks but the rest of the aquarium was open and with penguins, otters, seals, tortoises, lizards, and frogs featuring highly in my wife’s list of favourite animals (everyone’s got one) this wasn’t too much of a disappointment. We spent a lot of time in particular around the penguins. Coloured tags on them could be matched up to a list of names around the enclosure and we were thoroughly entertained by the occasional inelegant diving off the rocks into the water.

With the aforementioned aggravated injury to my wife on our minds we decided we’d make a slow loop back around to the ship via one other identified target to hit. First up, we passed another fortress – Fredriksberg – which didn’t provide any option to explore inside although a statue outside it dedicated to mothers and children in war made for a decent framing device for a photo.

The place we’d aimed for, and eventually found after a few wrong turns, was Apollon Platebar, which the website may lead you to suspect is just a vinyl record store. It is one of those, and a very nice one too if you want to find something a little different, but it’s also a craft ale bar with a great list of beers to try. Did you know that we like local ales and ciders when we travel? Well, now you do. We stayed for two and, with no need (or desire) to rush back to the ship, we would have stayed for more but we’d come dressed for the conditions outside – surprisingly warm and sunny – while the interior was apparently kept at “just above fridge levels”. The locals possibly found it toasty but we got cold enough to cut our planned drinking session short. A bit of a shame but we’d definitely come back, albeit with more layers.

We started now on the bimble back towards the cruise ship and this took us past several sights we remembered from visiting Bergen in 2013: the pavilion, the Sailors Monument, the Grieg statue, and Sæverudmonumentet, which appears to be a deconstructed Stargate. The person with gull on his head represented in the statue atop the tall pillar is Christian Michelsen, involved in the dissolution between Norway and Sweden, and the first prime minister of an independent Norway in 1905.

We’d been informed that Ambassador Ambience would be staying in port overnight so there was some discussion between me and my wife about whether we would head back out after getting on board, showering, and having some dinner, just to see what Bergen’s night life was like, keeping an eye out for places that wouldn’t be too far from the ship as we headed towards it, but in the end we decided not to risk any more strain on already injured limbs. We took our time retracing our route along the harbour waterfront as the sun got lower in the sky with an occasional halt to do some souvenir shopping.

To finish off this day spent in Norway’s second city here’s a look at the view from our balcony and some food and drink we enjoyed on the ship.

It was good to be back in Bergen and there are more things there that we’d like to see whenever we next get around to visiting it. Hopefully, less than a decade between trips this time. The aquarium would be worth a return just to see the tanks we’d missed out on viewing on this occasion, and we certainly wouldn’t be averse to revisiting the bar too in order to see how many other beers we could check off.

In the next post in this cruise travelogue series my wife gets the chance to rest her injured leg on a sea day after a morning sail away from Bergen.

The day ashore had been bright, clear, warm (for Norway), and sunny, but our day of departure was cloaked in cloud cover. We still admired the views as we left port, though, even if there wouldn’t be much in the way of fjord-like scenery to pass on this itinerary given that we were following the coastline north for the most part.

We’d already passed under the Askoy bridge before I’d had a chance to grab my camera. Cruise people like to sail under bridges. It’s something you’ll enjoy too if you’ve never cruised before. And you’ll wave to people on the shore and people on other ships as you pass by. You won’t be able to help yourself.

As you might be able to tell from the photos above, there are lots of geological features to admire in the rocky shoreline and islands that mark the passage out from Bergen but. as with all the ports on the western coast of Norway, you won’t get that complete wow factor that happens when you head inland and down the narrower fjords. And on this particular day the flat colours of the grey sky reflected in the calm waters didn’t add a lot of drama either.

We would be spending the rest of the day on the ship as she slowly headed out to sea and up towards the next day’s port of call and there’s a tiny chance that you might be interested in seeing what a daily programme of events for a sea day on an Ambassador Cruise Line ship looks like, so here’s what we had on offer.

One thing not in the plans for the day was the possibility of rough sea conditions as evidenced by the appearance of comfort bags dotted around Ambience. We’re fortunate in that – to date, at least – we’ve never suffered from any sea sickness. In fact, we love a nice rough sea and the rocking and rolling of the ship when it happens. If the ship never felt like it was moving then it may as well be a hotel. Unfortunately for us, though probably welcomed by some aboard the ship, there was very little noticeable movement on this sea day and the presence of the bags was unwarranted.

You can do as much or as little as you like when you cruise. If you need the ship to entertain you and provide activities then there will be opportunities throughout the day, but it’s ultimately up to you what you do and how much you do. For us, other than the trivia, we’re usually content to simply find somewhere to read and that’s mostly what we did.

We spent part of the morning in the bright and airy Botanical Lounge, in part because the lighting made reading easiest here given the grey day outside. Like all the lounges on Ambassador Ambience, the Botanical Lounge was double-height, making it feel like a proper place to come, designed for that purpose, and not somewhere wedged into a deck somewhere. The lounge’s aesthetic was that of a traditional orangery with some pale, warm tones and splashes of greenery.

While we were in the Botanical Lounge we got talking to a Belgian guy which initially surprised us because some cruise lines are definitely international in feel, attracting people from all over the world, while others are far more domestic, leaning heavily and almost exclusively on their home nation for passengers. Ambassador’s British-based ships certainly fall into that latter category and we’d not expected to bump into anyone coming from abroad to take the trip. However, there was a very good reason in this case because the Belgian guy’s dad had always wanted to see the Northern Lights on a cruise but also had some serious health issues. One thing that sets Ambassador apart from many other lines is that they have a dedicated medical facility that provides dialysis services on both Ambience and Ambition.

Below there’s a view of the central atrium spanning three decks on Ambience. As central spaces on ships go it’s a large one with the usual array of coffee shops, bars, guest services, and shops hanging around it, but we didn’t spend an awful lot of time here on this cruise, preferring the more stylish lounges elsewhere.

Dinner that evening was another perfectly fine meal with some great service from the staff. We generally found the food on Ambience to be good, never quite veering into great, but perfectly fine, as I’ve already said, and never had an issue with taste, quality, or temperature.

We spent some time after dinner back in the Botanical Lounge to catch a set from the Albert Duo – who were absolutely, definitely a pair of undercover international hitmen – and followed that up with one of the most talented pianists we’ve ever experienced listening to on a cruise ship, Alex Dennis, in Raffles.

The sea day from Bergen concluded, like most days on Ambience for us, in the captured UFO that served as the ship’s gorgeous nightclub, The Observatory.

In the next post in this series we’ll arrive at the port of Ålesund where we begin with a walk up the hill Storhaugen for some views over the city.

Before looking at the city, here’s the view from the top deck of Ambience looking southwards on this cool, ever-so-slightly damp day in Norway. The distant, snowy mountain range is known as the Sunnmøre Alps.

We had two things we actually wanted to do during this day in Ålesund: visit a particular museum; and have some local ales in a microbrewery near the port. Neither of those things could be done immediately as both locations opened later in the day, with the museum opening mid-morning and the brewery mid-afternoon. So this meant we needed to kill a little bit of time first and we’d already identified an early possibility.

Let’s talk about the geography of Ålesund. It’s considered to be mainly spread over three close-connected islands, these being, from west to east, Hessa, Aspøya, and Nørvøya. As a cruise ship visitor you’re more likely to only really see the latter two of these as the city centre is grouped around the narrow stretch of water and marina area that separates them. The largest island, Nørvøya, can be seen in the photo below, and it’s the one with the hilly Aksla viewpoint, a popular destination for people wanting the grandest views over the city. Cruise ships dock at Nørvøya, very close to the vehicle and pedestrian bridges that cross over the narrow strait to the smallest island, Aspøya. Aspøya has its own hilly viewpoint, albeit a far smaller one, and that’s where we would be heading instead. If you’ve read about our time in Bergen then you’ll know that my wife had an old injury flare up while walking up a road there so any further form of strenuous walking wasn’t really advisable, but it doesn’t feel like we’re truly been on a cruise unless she’s grimacing in pain and telling me to shut the fuck up when I ask her if she’s coping okay at some point. Even if we’d both been in great physical shape – for us – then Aksla on foot would not have been an option. We’re not natural climbers.

We headed ashore for a morning that would be accompanied by that faintest of drizzles you can only really feel on your skin as a cold, prickly mist, not see.

We almost immediately came upon a grand example of Jugendstil architecture, the Germanic form of Art Nouveau that dominates the city thanks to its history. If you’ve read our previous visit to Ålesund, or if you wait to read the next post in this series when we visit the museum dedicated to the architectural movement, then you’ll know that a city-wide fire in the early years of the twentieth century is the reason for this look. The building is the Arbeideren Kulturhus, a cultural centre and theatre.

As we came to Hellebroa, the short road bridge connecting the islands of Nørvøya and Aspøya, we passed by a World War I mine – presumably defused – that had been set up in the city in 1920 as a spot to collect money for relatives of lost seamen.

No matter the weather, Norway’s mountainous landscapes are just stunning.

The viewpoint we were heading for on Aspøya was Storhaugen, and while it was up, as viewpoints tend to be, it wasn’t too up with easy-to-ascend roads and pavements. I wouldn’t necessarily want to do this sort of thing in icy conditions, but on this day, with it also not being too hot, it wasn’t exactly pleasant (for us), but it wasn’t a troubling bit of walking either.

We passed a few buildings of note on the slow trek up the hill. Ålesund Church, you won’t be surprised to hear if you know anything about the state of religion in the Nordic countries, is Lutheran. It didn’t appear to be open as we passed by on the way up and the way down but if it had been then we’d have popped inside for a look at its likely fairly utilitarian innards, just because that’s the sort of thing that nosey people like us do. The bright yellow building is a primary school, built about a decade after most of the rest of the city and therefore shifting architecturally from the more common Jugendstil to Neo-Baroque. For a time during World War II it was used as a warehouse and accommodation for occupying German forces.

You know you’re at a place of some interest if you see a sign with the distances and directions to various destinations around the world. Storhaugen is just a tad under seventeen thousand kilometres from the south pole. You never know when that information will come in handy.

The views over Ålesund and the surrounding area from Storhaugen may not have been as wide-ranging as those from Aksla – we don’t know; we’ve never been – but they were still lovely and provided a full 360 degrees of distant landscapes and waterways to admire.

We could see Ambassador Ambience back in port – and we could even see our balcony cabin; one of the square balconies a couple of decks straight up from the A of Ambassador – and cruising law required us to take a photo, post it on our Instagram page, and tag the company, so that’s what we did.

There was a cylindrical stone pillar at the top of Storhaugen but we never did discover if there was any special significance to it, or if it was decorative, or marked the highest elevation, or was functional in some way. Still, who doesn’t like a mysterious pillar?

In the next post in this cruise travelogue series we’ll head down but stay on the island of Aspøya as we visit the Jugendstil Museum to learn some more about the history of the rebuild of Ålesund and see some examples of items produced in the art movement.

Ålesund is a place to come for early twentieth century architecture and we admired much of it on the walk down to the city centre. Art Nouveau, but not quite Art Nouveau.

If you’ve read the previous post in this series covering our 2025 cruise aboard Ambassador Ambience then you’ll have rolled your eyes as I droned on about the geography of Ålesund and how we’d docked on one of its islands, Nørvøya, then crossed over the short bridge to the smallest of its islands, Aspøya, when heading up the hill. We would be staying on Aspøya while visiting the museum but since I took a photo of the waterway that separates the two islands at this point, below you can see just how close the islands really are and what’s involved in crossing from one to the other.

The museum we were interested in was Jugendstilsenteret, or the Jugendstil Centre. It’s a building that’s hard to miss if you’re visiting, and it was the first listed building relating to the Jugendstil movement in the city, earning this accolade in 1984. The building itself – a pharmacy originally – was built between 1905 and 1907, like most of the rest of the city, and if you want to delve into the reasons for that, as well as what separates Jugendstil from the closely-related Art Nouveau movement, then I covered it more fully in our first visit to Ålesund a few years earlier (see: Ålesund And Some Architectural History), but the very abbreviated version is: big fire followed by rebuilding assistance from Kaiser Wilhelm.

The Jugendstil Centre is not a large museum but it has some lovely pieces on display in its rooms. A few photos here will whet your appetite if this is the sort of place you think you might be interested in visiting while in Ålesund. Given the relatively small size of the city then if you’re not heading off on an excursion – assuming you’ve arrived on a cruise ship – then it’s probably the main attraction for people who like to learn a little when they travel. Other people like to shop or drink or walk, and if that’s you then that’s fine too, but since you’ve found this page (somehow, given the terrible state of searching online these days) then it would seem you’re carrying a keen mind in your head, and the architectural and art centre is worth some of your time and money in my opinion. I have great opinions.

There was plenty of silverware and brooches on show, the former being of interest to my father-in-law and the latter being of interest to my mother-in-law (with one brooch we saw looking almost identical to something she owns), so my wife took lots of pictures to send to them in an attempt to encourage them to visit here at some future point. They’ve actually since booked a cruise to this part of the world and will be stopping in Ålesund so they’re bound to pop into the museum now. This officially makes us influencers.

I adored the intricate detailing on the following two pieces we saw in the Jugendstil Centre, and the teapot particularly. Small, yes, but I bet it pours a wonderful cup of tea.

The Jugendstil Centre includes a small shop and a café and we spent money in both of them. The café was a bit weird, appearing to work on the honour system where you sorted yourself out then popped back to the entrance to tell the people what drink you’d made and what cookie you’d eaten.

In the next post in this cruise travelogue series we do a bit more wandering around, exploring more of the streets of Ålesund until such time as the brewery near the port opens.